-I posted this kit for sale, since no one was interested to buy this kit I just decided to keep it.
-First was the decision on keeping it, Second question was what to do about it.
-Browsed the manual and saw a Woodland Camo and Oceanic Camo color scheme.
-Decided to “pimp” my Acguy with the latter.
-This is my first “take your time” and “do it when you’re in the mood” kit.
-I’ll skip the ootb build part because I haven’t got a chance to take pictures that time. I didn’t even have a picture of the snapbuilt kit. For comparison of before and after. I was so excited… pardon me.
-Used a little box cutter to cut off some sprues left.
-Used a standard “dry” sandpaper 1000 and 1200 grit which can be easily bought if grit is available from any hardware store.
-Sanding was progressive. 1000 to start and 1200 for the finishing. Ended up using a total of 4 sandpapers, 2 each.
-Afterwards, I washed off the dusts with water and dishwashing liquid using a basin and a toothbrush.
-Waited for it to dry. Wiped off any watermarks left with a soft tissue.
-This is my first time to use a surface primer on a kit. Based on experience, I used a Tamiya Acrylic XF2 – Flat White before as a neutral and first coat but the paint chipped away along with the colored second coat… what a waste.
Drying the surface primer. Used satay/bamboo bbq sticks and glu tack
Joints and side of torso
Front torso and cockpit
Foot and leg
-I used a Mr. Surfacer 1000 with Mr.Color Thinner…I used a ratio of 1:1
-The paint stinks… but the results were outstanding. This paint really sticks onto a dark colored plastic, it also helps cover up those shallow dent marks from excess cuts.
-Some dents showed up after the surface priming process. I used a small paint brush to paint the dents with Mr. Surfacer. Applied a thicker coat to cover up the dents and trenches possible… Left it to dry and then sand… Again this was a valuable lesson; I should’ve done this before priming. Again I had to start priming them… But at least only some parts I need to. Like the outer armors on shoulders, legs and feet.
Painting the internal frame
-Used Tamiya Acrylic X-18 Semi Gloss Black on:
• Solid Torso
-Used Tamiya Acrylic X-11 Chrome Silver (For me, to give emphasis on a more “tougher” reinforced alloy)
• Body Frame
• Turbines on backpack
• Turbines on feet
This metallic paint is grainy and leaves a glittery stuff on your hands even when dry. I used a Tamiya Acrylic X-22 Clear to seal it on. Waited for it to dry and viola! No more glitters!
-Used Tamiya Acrylic X-27 Clear Red on the mono-eye
-Used Tamiya Acrylic X-7 Red on:
• Pipe on the torso sides
• Circle on joint holes
-Used Tamiya Acrylic X-F6 Copper on:
• Hinges inside the joint
• Forearm joints (piston like, retractable arms)
-Used Tamiya X-22 again to seal as metallic colors really smear even when dry.
-Used Tamiya Acrylic X-10 Gun Metal on:
• Vulcan Guns mounted on head
• Gun on forearm
-Used Tamiya Acrylic X-22 again on all of the internal parts to seal the colors and as topcoat.
-Finished priming the external parts… done it in about 2 hours…
Done First coat on the external parts. Used Tamiya Acrylic X-14 Sky Blue
Took me 1.5 hours
While waiting for the paint to dry. I tried to research online what would be the best way to mask the 1st coat and apply the 2nd coat.
A website says to use a glu tack to hide the 1st coat. Another website says to use Tamiya tape but he cut it in rectangular pattern to make a digital camo.
Hmmmm. I may have difficulty painting on the pattern if using a glu tack because the airbrush I have is not thin enough to reach the edges. I may encounter some undesirable paint smears in the process also I don’t want the digital camo pattern now, maybe later.
So I chose the middle way of doing it. Cut the patterns off from the Tamiya Tape…
An idea came in to use the non-stick paper from a sticker label. So I can draw the patterns on a Tamiya Tape without compromising the adhesive from the tape.
I used a readily available A4 size sticker paper had it for labeling purposes. Peeled the sticker off and folded and divided it in 4.
Used Tamiya Tape to cover the slick, non-stick part of the paper.
Then used it to draw the patterns… Used a Uni ballpen 0.1
Used a small “decent” pair of scissors to cut out the patterns. Easy to draw but was difficult to cut out. As you can see.
After covering some parts of the 1st coat, painted the 2nd coat with Tamiya Acrylic X-4 Blue.
After 2nd coat. Mask again with Tamiya tape…
After drying the paint and removing the stickers… This is how it will look like.
*Painted the mid part with Tamiya Acrylic X-3 Royal Blue
Head test fit…
Here is the complete kit. I airbrushed water on it and had to do it outdoors. I don’t have a miniature photo booth studio yet but soon I’ll get more pictures if time permits.
Thanks for visiting!